Chiang Mai (sh) and Lemon sole and oysters with muscovado jelly and sweet and sour chicory (recipes)

Chiang Mai (sh)

City (pop., 1999 est.: 171,594), northwestern Thailand.

Located on the Ping River about 80 mi (130 km) east of Myanmar, it was founded in the late 13th century as the capital of the independent Lan Na kingdom. Later subject to Myanmar, it was taken by the Siamese in 1774, but retained a degree of independence from Bangkok until the late 19th century. It is now northern Thailand's religious, economic, and cultural centre. Nearby is the temple complex of Wat Phra That Doi Suthop, whose monastery was built in the 14th century.

Lemon sole and oysters with muscovado jelly and sweet and sour chicory (recipes)

Serves 4

Preparation time

30 mins to 1 hour

Cooking time

1 to 2 hours

Ingredients

For the oysters and muscovado jelly8 fresh oysters in their shells 4 tsp agar-agar 50g/2oz dark muscovado sugar, plus a little extra for sprinkling100g/4oz salted butter ½ lemon, juice only50ml/2fl oz good chicken stock50ml/2fl oz good fish stock2-3 drops sherry or balsamic vinegar1 tsp chopped parsley For the lemon sole2 whole lemon soles (ask your fishmonger to remove the head, fins and black skin, and cut lengthways down through the central spine, to give you 4 long pieces - the fish is still on the bone)olive or groundnut oil, for shallow frying25g/1oz salted butterFor the sweet and sour chicory1 head chicorysqueeze lemon juicepinch caster sugarsea saltolive oil1 tsp chopped chives

Method

1. For the oysters, remove the oysters from their shells. Strain the juices and reserve. Chop each oyster into three and keep chilled until needed.2. For the muscovado jelly, mix the agar-agar with 100ml/3½fl oz cold water in a pan and leave (off the heat) for a few minutes until softened, then stir in the muscovado sugar, turn the heat on to high and boil for one minute. Pour in one-third of the reserved oyster juices. Strain through a fine sieve into a small container and leave to set at room temperature (this should take about 20 minutes).3. Put the 100g/4oz of butter into a small pan. Melt, then heat until almost nut-brown and starting to sizzle and caramelise on the bottom of the pan. As the butter foams, quickly mix in the lemon juice, chicken stock and fish stock to create an emulsion. Add the vinegar for a touch of acidity. Remove from the heat and blend with a stick blender to make a creamy sauce. Add half of the remaining oyster juices and whiz again with the stick blender. Drop in the chopped oysters. Set aside at room temperature. 4. For the lemon sole, pat the pieces of lemon sole dry with kitchen paper. Add a dash of oil to a large non-stick frying pan and heat until you can feel the heat rising when you place your hand above the surface. Lay the fish pieces in the pan, white skin-side down, and cook gently for two minutes. Add the 25g/1oz butter, which will melt and foam straightaway. Turn the fish over and cook gently for one more minute. Remove from the heat and leave the fish to continue to cook in the residual heat of the pan for a couple of minutes.5. Meanwhile, finely slice the head of chicory lengthways on a mandoline. Put into a bowl and squeeze over a little lemon juice. Add the sugar, some sea salt, a drizzle of olive oil and the chives, then mix everything together and taste for seasoning. Add the chopped parsley to the oyster butter sauce.6. To serve, drain the lemon sole on kitchen paper and carefully remove the bone from each piece. Place a piece of fish on each plate and brush with the remaining oyster juices.7. Spoon the warm oysters over the fish with some of the butter sauce, then dot tiny scoops of the muscovado jelly, taken with the tip of a teaspoon, between the chopped oysters. Sprinkle the jelly with a little muscovado sugar. Scatter the chicory alongside the fish.

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